Wandering the Side Streets: Exploring "Inside Osatsu" Like a Local

By Mio Ieda

Local in Toba

Located in Minami-Toba (Southern Toba), Osatsu-cho is a town sustained by fishing and tourism, boasting the highest concentration of Ama (traditional woman divers) in Japan. This historic fishing village retains scenery and cultural traditions distinct from the central Toba city area. We took a leisurely walk through the town, listening to the whistling wind and the sound of the tide, to experience Osatsu from a local perspective.

Starting the Journey at Shinmei Shrine

Our walk begins at Shinmei Shrine, the home of the local guardian deity. The shrine grounds are famous for Ishigami-san, a small sanctuary said to grant "one wish for any woman."

Leaving the shrine approach behind, the first things you notice are the narrow paths and frequent elevation changes—telltale signs of an old, organic fishing village layout.

Our first stop was Chidorigahama Beach, a beautiful stretch of white sand. While it draws crowds of swimmers in the summer, it is incredibly peaceful during the off-season. On this particularly clear day, we could even see the faint silhouette of Mt. Fuji across Ise Bay—a lucky start to our trip!

Walking Through the Ubame Oak Forest at Kujirazaki

Next, we headed for the Kujirazaki Promenade. Located on the northern side of Osatsu Fishing Port, the path leads through a "tunnel" of Ubame oaks (the wood used to make high-quality Bincho-tan charcoal).

Legend has it that a whale once appeared at the tip of this cape carrying a statue of Kannon (the Goddess of Mercy) on its back—hence the name Kujirazaki (Whale Cape). The view from the point is spectacular, offering a panoramic look at the vast Pacific Ocean. After offering a prayer to Berai-san (Benzaiten), the guardian deity of fishermen, we moved on.

Listening to Migratory Birds at the Quiet Ikejiri Port

A short hike further brought us to Ikejiri Port, Osatsu’s second harbor. Situated deeper in the inlet than the main port, it serves as a calm refuge for fishing boats during typhoons.

In the pond behind the water gate, migratory birds were resting for the winter. The winter sun reflecting off the mirror-like water was dazzlingly beautiful.

Breathtaking Views and Somber History at Sugasaki Park

After a quick break, we headed for our final destination: Sugasaki Park (Harusame Lookout). As the houses faded away and the road turned to unpaved earth, the path felt a bit lonely, but the reward at the end was worth it.

Sugasaki Park offers a full view of Matoya Bay (famous for its oysters) and the Anorisaki Lighthouse on the opposite shore. It is also a renowned spot for sunsets. At the top of the lookout sits the "Tokotowa Bell" (The Bell of Eternity); legend says that couples who ring it together will enjoy eternal love.

While now a popular scenic spot, this area has a tragic history. In 1911, the destroyer Harusame ran aground on the offshore reefs. Thanks to the heroic rescue efforts of local Osatsu fishermen and Ama divers, eight lives were saved.

Today, a memorial stands here to honor those lost. We took a moment to burn the magnificent scenery into our memories before heading back.

Browsing the Way Back

On our way back through town, we discovered Maruta Kaneko Shoten, a seafood wholesaler. Peeking inside, we saw fresh fish, Ise Spiny Lobsters, and sea cucumbers swimming in tanks. The shop also features a souvenir corner with local seaweed and a wide variety of handmade dried fish (himono) that looked delicious. After picking up some local Aosa (sea lettuce) for miso soup, we continued toward the shrine.

Just before the shrine entrance, we made a spontaneous stop at the Osatsu Ama Culture Museum (entry is free!). The museum provides an excellent overview of Ama culture through displays of traditional tools, vintage white diving wear (isogi), and detailed dioramas. It was surprising to realize how little the core methods of Ama fishing have changed over their long history.

Lured by the sound of the "shop dog" barking, we visited Nakatatsu Shoten across from the museum. On this day, Ms. Nakata—an active Ama diver—was running the shop. She sells handmade original goods, such as keychains made from abalone shells and sea-glass earrings. The shop is full of interesting finds, from local Arame seaweed to "Ama snacks" like fried mochi. Ms. Nakata even shared some pesticide-free lemons a local neighbor had just dropped off—a heartwarming local interaction!

Back to Shinmei Shrine

Osatsu's Shinmei Shrine

A few hundred meters from Nakatatsu Shoten, we arrived back at Shinmei Shrine. We walked quietly through the grounds and offered a final prayer of gratitude for a safe journey.

From narrow, winding alleys and forested mountain paths to unpaved trails, this route turned out to be full of variety. It was a rich, fulfilling day spent connecting with the stunning views, the deep history, and the vibrant fishing culture of Osatsu.