Winter in Toba: How We Savour Our Favorite Season

By Orie Iwasaki

Local in Toba

In Toba, winter usually brings mild, sunny days. While it doesn’t snow, the air turns crisp and sharp, and the ocean begins to sparkle with an even deeper shade of blue. While the bustling summer season is popular with tourists, for those of us who live here, winter is the most "luxurious season" of the year.

This is because Toba in winter is packed with blissful gourmet experiences and soul-cleansing sacred traditions that can only be enjoyed at this time of year. Here is how we enjoy winter, rooted in our local way of life.

1. Oyster Shacks: A Winter Weekend Family Tradition

When November arrives and the oyster season begins in Uramura and on

Toshi Island, our dining tables suddenly become lively. During this period, "Oyster Shacks" (Kaki-goya) operated by local farmers open for a limited time, allowing us to feast on freshly grilled or steamed oysters to our heart's content.

In fact, having lunch at an oyster shack is an indispensable winter ritual for my family. Many shops offer "all-you-can-eat" plans for under 3,000 yen. Gathering around a mountain of oysters with family is the ultimate winter luxury.

Local Tip: When grilling oysters, the shells can sometimes pop and crackle, sending small fragments or ash flying. It’s best to wear clothes you don’t mind getting a bit dirty. If you’re nervous about grilling them yourself, you can choose a shop where professional staff will grill them perfectly for you. Also, some shops serve raw oysters—a treat unique to the source—with a creamy flavor you’ll never forget. Most places require reservations, so be sure to check online or call in advance.

2. Toro Sawara: Chasing the Rare "Gem of the Sea"

Another absolute must-try in winter is Toro Sawara (Fatty Spanish Mackerel). While Spanish mackerel is usually a lean white fish, those grown in the winter waters of Toba are incredibly fatty, much like the toro (fatty belly) of a tuna. Only fish that clear strict quality standards can carry this brand name. Because they are so rare, most are shipped at high prices to high-end restaurants in big cities; they aren't easy to find, even for locals.

Where to find it? If you want to guarantee a taste of this "phantom flavor," ordering it at a local ryokan (inn) or restaurant is your best bet. For example, the renowned restaurant Kagetsu in Toba offers it as a special seasonal dish. If you’re looking for it in a more everyday setting, peek into the fishmonger Yamagen inside the "Hello" shopping center. If you’re lucky enough to find shimmering slices of Toro Sawara sashimi on the counter, consider it your luckiest day!

3. First Shrine Visit and First Sunrise: A New Year Beginning at the Sea

Welcoming the New Year quietly yet powerfully is one of the best parts of winter in Toba. In the early morning of New Year’s Day, I head to Chidorigahama Beach in Osatsu. This is a prime spot to witness the beautiful first sunrise rising directly from the horizon. Because the winter air is dry and clear, this is also the best time of year to spot the silhouette of Mt. Fuji in the far distance if you're lucky.

After greeting the sunrise, we visit a local shrine to pray for health and safety in the coming year. Of course, a visit to the Ise Jingu Grand Shrine is essential.

Pro Tip for Visitors: Ise Jingu becomes extremely crowded during the New Year as people visit from all over Japan. A large arena called "Sun Arena," located between Toba and Ise, becomes a massive temporary parking lot. If you plan to go by car, avoid the traffic jams by using the "Park & Bus Ride" free shuttle service operated by Ise City. These dedicated buses will take you smoothly to the shrine.

Conclusion: A Journey to Touch the "Authentic" Toba

Winter in Toba isn't just about being a "tourist destination"; it’s a season where you can truly feel the gratitude for nature’s blessings and the lifestyle of people who cherish ancient traditions.

The sound of crackling oysters, the sweetness of Toro Sawara melting in your mouth, and the divine sun rising from the horizon—these authentic experiences wait for you here. Bundle up in your warmest coat and come enjoy the winter of Toba with all your senses.