A Home Away from Home: A Warm Welcome at Tōshi Island's Minshuku Inns
- 3 days ago
- 4 min read
Updated: 2 days ago
By Motomi Nakamura
Local in Toba
Spending time at an inn on Tōshi Island is like a refreshing "cleansing of the soul," allowing you to leave the bustle of the city behind and surrender to the island’s daily rhythm and nature. From the sea breeze passing through your window to the relaxation of a quiet island night, travelers are welcomed with the luxury of authentic local ingredients and warm hospitality unique to the island.
Immerse Yourself in the Island's Full Charm
Strolling through the island is not just about visiting tourist spots. The true pleasure lies in feeling the powerful pulse of island life, a sense of nostalgia where time seems to have stood night, and the unique culture and history.
The settlements on Tōshi Island are densely packed with houses, carrying a scent of the Showa era that feels somewhat nostalgic. The narrow alleys are like a maze that stirs a sense of adventure. You will see everyday scenes like washing machines and sinks placed outdoors for cleaning fish, and conversations with residents flow naturally.
Tōshi Island is known as the final resting place of Kuki Yoshitaka, the leader of the powerful Kuki Navy who served Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi. After his defeat at the Battle of Sekigahara, Yoshitaka took his own life on this island. Following his final wish to be buried where he could see Toba Castle, his head was laid to rest at the summit of Mount Chikujo, while his body was buried in the village of Wagu.
Even older history is preserved at the Ganiana and Iwayayama burial mounds. These 7th-century tombs with stone chambers suggest the island was governed by powerful figures as a key point for maritime transport. Pottery found at the Ganiana mound has been designated as a National Important Cultural Property.
Nakamura-ya: Resting the Senses and Savoring Island Food
Nakamura-ya, an inn where you can hear the sound of the waves, promises a stay filled with the sounds of nature. Open a window and a pleasant sea breeze flows through; at night, you can listen to the surf while gazing at a star-filled sky that is invisible in the city.
Check-in is available from 14:00. You might drop off your luggage early to wander the back alleys and historic sites, or simply relax in your room before soaking in the "Suijin-no-yu" hot spring to relax your body and mind. By letting go of a strict schedule, you can discover the true appeal of the island. Having the peace of mind to enjoy the slight inconveniences of a remote island is what elevates a personal journey.
The highlight of Nakamura-ya is the wild local fish selected by the young master, Yasuhisa Nakamura. He personally attends the auctions held several times a day at the island’s market to source the freshest catch. Being able to offer exactly what he wants to his guests is a great strength of the inn, but it is a responsibility he takes seriously.
In winter, the fatty "Toro Sawara" (Spanish mackerel) is particularly delicious. The inn’s style is to serve the true flavors of the season, including "Momo Komachi" branded oysters, tiger pufferfish, rockfish in spring, and sea bass in summer.
Recently, university students have been staying on the island for projects, bringing a fresh energy. "At 'Neyakoya,' a space utilizing a vacant house, radio calisthenics are held every morning," Nakamura says. "You can see warm scenes of local elderly people and youth interacting like grandparents and grandchildren." Connecting with the residents helps engrave the breath of the island into your travel memories.
Misaki: The Joy of the Catch and Harbor Views
At Misaki, you can begin a fishing experience just three seconds after stepping out of the lobby. The inn provides rental sets for fishing gear and bait, and the owner, Takashi Hashimoto, gives detailed advice on the tides and the best spots to catch fish. It is possible to have your catch served for dinner, a luxury that brings many families back as repeat guests.
The meals center on the highest quality seafood, purchased at auction by the owner, who holds a broker’s license. "Wrapping seared sashimi in Tōshi Island’s specialty black nori seaweed is the local way to eat," says Hashimoto. The guest rooms are arranged with tables and chairs facing the ocean, creating an environment where you can immerse yourself in remote work or reading while your view is filled entirely by the sea.
Since fishing boats are moored right in front of Misaki, you can feel the energy of the harbor firsthand. The lights of the fleet departing all at once after 3:00 AM and the serious expressions of the fishers unloading their catch represent a powerful, "moving" daily life of a fishing village. The islanders are bright and open. There are even heartwarming stories of fishers striking up a conversation in an alley or sharing some of their catch with travelers who weren't having any luck.
A Place to Breathe and Return To
Hashimoto suggests an ideal three-day, two-night trip to Tōshi Island. Spend the first night enjoying the inn’s signature seafood. For the second night, choose a plan without dinner and head out to the island’s local izakayas or diners to enjoy interacting with the residents. While this means less revenue for the inn, there is a luxury in hearing stories not found in guidebooks, told in the local dialect. By valuing the connections between people, the sea, and food, the true value of Tōshi Island is revealed.
Once you experience the richness of the island air, the warmth of the people, and the overwhelming freshness of the ingredients, you will surely want to return and say, "I'm home."
Go Deeper
To explore Toba’s largest island, a bicycle is better than walking. We recommend renting a bike to cross the island from the Wagu and Tōshi districts to the Momotori district, enjoying the different scenery of each settlement. Be sure to visit "RAY FIELD," which offers a panoramic view of Toba Bay, and "BLUE FIELD," where the Pacific Ocean stretches out before your eyes.
