A Taste of the Island: Your Tōshi Gourmet Guide
- 2 days ago
- 6 min read
By Motomi Nakamura
Local in Toba
A food journey on Tōshi Island is filled with powerful seasonal flavors, stripped of flashy presentation. From savoring the rich fat of the Mie-branded "Tōshi Island Toro Sawara" to experiencing the true luxury of the fragrant wakame scent rising from the harbor, this island offers a rustic yet decadent culinary experience that fully satisfies both the stomach and the senses.
Freshly Baked Flavors Supporting Sea Workers: Hamayoshi 2139
At Tōshi Island’s only bakery, Hamayoshi 2139, 80 varieties of freshly baked bread line the shelves. You will find it hard to choose between white bread, danishes, crusty artisan loaves, cream-filled pastries, and savory options. Island fishers often eat these convenient, delicious breads while out at sea, meaning the bakery gets busier as the fishing season picks up.
"It depends on the weather. If the sea is rough, they don't go out, but local people still come to buy on their motorbikes," says Shizuka Yamatsu.
This was originally Shizuka’s childhood home and a former mochi shop. The Yamatsu family, who previously ran a bakery in Osaka, moved back and opened this shop in 2024.
There is no barrier between the sales floor and the kitchen; her son Shuhei and husband Yasuyuki work at full capacity in front of the ovens. The shop is filled with the toasted aroma of wheat and the sweet scent of butter. Some items feature local touches, like "Maruhachi" branded bean paste buns or white bread shaped like the cats often seen around the island. Her daughter Asuka announces new products and island weather on Instagram. It is a lovely experience to enjoy a freshly baked bun filled with the Yamatsu family's love for the island at the harbor where the fishing boats are moored. 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM / Open Saturday to Tuesday (Sold at Toba Marine Terminal on Fridays)
Maruto Shokudo: A Diner Feeling the Breath of the Island
Located near the Tōshi ferry terminal is Maruto Shokudo. As seen from its top two popular menu items—Chukashoba (ramen) and meat udon—this is a reliable eatery for locals and those visiting for work. To enjoy a flavor unique to a remote island, try the mekabu udon. The bowl is generously topped with Tōshi Island mekabu seaweed, which is thick and satisfying to eat. The briny umami and unique sticky texture cling to every noodle. A pro tip is to drop a small scoop of rice into the remaining broth infused with the mekabu dashi. Run by mother and daughter Kiyomi and Nozomi Nishikawa, this shop also acts as a liquor and tobacco store, even allowing regulars to buy on credit. It is a place truly blended into the island's daily life. Diner open 11:00 AM to 2:00 PM / Closed Jan 1–2 and unscheduled holidays
Marumitsu: Father and Son Protecting Tōshi’s Proud Seasonal Tastes
A five-minute walk from the Wagu ferry terminal, Marumitsu is a restaurant where two generations, Noboru and Masakazu Hashimoto, keep the tradition alive. Noboru is a master of fishing and diving who knows the Tōshi sea intimately. He personally goes out to catch horse mackerel and rockfish. The sushi rice is prepared so each grain stands out, and regulars travel from across the prefecture and beyond for a taste. During the Toro Sawara season, the menu offers both sashimi and seared versions, along with sawara cutlet bowls and fried sets. Conversations with the owner flow easily over the counter, and sushi can be ordered one piece at a time in an unpretentious atmosphere. The local fish caught that morning eloquently tells the story of the island's four seasons. 11:00 AM to 9:00 PM (Reservations required for dinner) / Unscheduled holidays
Ohara: Savoring Pride-of-the-Fleet Fish as Sushi or Side Dishes
Tucked away in the alleys of the Wagu settlement, Ohara is a shop loved by locals and often used for community gatherings. When it is time for the auctions, the owner runs to the market to hand-pick fish, providing the catch in its absolute best condition. The board lists seasonal menus, and materials for simmered fish or fried dishes are left to whatever is in the live tank, following owner Hiroshi Hamaguchi’s philosophy of "the island’s best things in the most delicious way." This passion is infused into every plate and every piece of sushi. While it has the casual feel of an izakaya, the craftsmanship is precise. The beautifully shaped rice and toppings so large they overflow harmonize perfectly in the mouth. It is a great place to enjoy a drink with seasonal local fish. 11:00 AM to 9:00 PM / Closed Wednesdays
Yamashita Tofu Ten: The Gentle Scent of Soybeans
The island’s authentic flavors aren't just from the sea. At Yamashita Tofu Ten, the only tofu shop on the island for 75 years, Sachiyo Yamashita carries on the methods she learned from her mother-in-law. The tofu has the gentle taste of the soybeans themselves and a natural, delicate texture.
"I was told not to add unnecessary things, so the ingredients are the same. The tools haven't changed either; it's just that wood fires became gas," she says.
After soaking soybeans overnight, she grinds, stirs, and boils them in a cauldron to make soy milk. Once magnesium chloride (nigari) is added to finish the tofu, she moves on to draining and frying tofu for abura-age, atsu-age, and hiryo-zu (ganmodoki). Orders come in from island inns and sushi shops, and her products are used in school lunches and daycare meals. Without cutting corners or worrying about efficiency, she works diligently to create her tofu. 5:30 AM to 6:00 PM / Closed Tuesdays
Yamaya Shoten: An Island General Store for Local Connection
Tōshi Island has no 24-hour convenience stores, but local shops supporting the residents' lives are a great ally for travelers. A short walk from Wagu Port brings you to the orange building of Yamaya Shoten. Their selection is truly that of an "everything store." From snacks and drinks to daily necessities and groceries, it is the hub of life in the Wagu district. You can also find soybean products from Yamashita Tofu Ten and seaweeds like aosa, making it a good place to pick up extra souvenirs while waiting for the boat.
Raised by Rich Fishing Grounds and Fisher’s Pride
Located at the entrance of Ise Bay, Tōshi Island is a treasure trove of seafood. The seasonal ingredients are not to be missed.
The absolute ace representing Tōshi Island in winter is "Tōshi Island Toro Sawara." It is a strictly selected ingredient that can only carry the name if it meets a fat content of 10% or more. Caught carefully by troll fishing and immediately bled on the boat, the freshness and beauty of the meat are exceptional. It has a rich sweetness but an elegant aftertaste. Enjoying it as sashimi or seared is the island's greatest luxury.
With the arrival of spring, the island's harbors turn a vivid green. Because Tōshi Island Wakame grows in fast currents, the leaves are thick and have a powerful texture that remains even after heating. If you can get fresh raw wakame, "shabu-shabu"—dipping it quickly into boiling water to watch it turn bright green—is the way to go.
Tōshi Island is also one of the nation's leading producers of Shirasu (whitebait). The season runs from early summer to autumn. Walking through the harbor, you will see "shirasu-boshi" (dried whitebait) spread out like a white carpet. Because the fishing grounds and processing plants are right next to each other, the freshly caught shirasu is boiled immediately. The island's pride is finishing them by drying them in the sea breeze and sunlight. This concentrates the umami and creates a plump texture.
In addition to the rich fishing grounds, the pride of the fishers who work there supports these ultimate flavors.
Go Deeper
Many people on Tōshi Island treat their island and its blessings with great affection. If you enjoy conversations with the shop owners and learn the stories behind the food, the flavors of your journey will become truly special.
