Get Lost in the Maze: A Wander Through Tōshi Island's Alleys
- 4 days ago
- 2 min read
By Motomi Nakamura
Local in Toba
Exploring Retro Alleys and Island Life
Spanning about 26 kilometers in circumference, Tōshi is divided into three districts: Tōshi, Wagu, and Momotori. The Tōshi settlement to the north is steeped in nostalgia, offering a glimpse into a Showa-era way of life. The alleyways, weaving between homes, create an adventurous feeling—you’ll often find yourself at dead ends that locals call sande no soko (the bottom of a turban shell).
These alleys are a "treasure lane" of island life. You might encounter an elderly resident pushing a jinjiro-sha, a unique local cart used to carry fish and vegetables, said to have been invented by a local blacksmith named Jinjiro.
If you need directions, just ask the grandmothers chatting by the wells; wandering without a map is the best way to encounter the warmth of the locals. Regarding the hidden nature of the village, local travel staff member Hiroyo Hamaguchi explains:
"Because the lots aren't large, washing machines are often kept outside. Residents also clean fresh fish or do dishes at outdoor sinks; the daily routine truly spills out into the alleys. Plus, you’ll notice the islanders decorate their homes with beautiful flowers."
The Mysterious "Maruhachi" and Hidden Culture
Look closely at doorways, walls, and fishing boats, and you will see a mysterious mark drawn in ink: Maruhachi. This crest of the Hachiman Shrine is a traditional prayer for safety and a bountiful catch.
This tight-knit environment gave rise to the Neyako system, an intangible folk cultural asset. Adolescent boys live communally in the home of a mentor known as a "sleeping parent" for ten years, forging bonds stronger than biological siblings. This trust forms the bedrock of the island’s festivals and fishing industry, giving the island the warmth of a single, large family.
A Feast for the Senses
After your walk, reward yourself with fresh toro-sawara (fatty Spanish mackerel). The island’s aromas change with the seasons; from February to April, the scent of fresh seaweed being boiled in cauldrons fills the air at Wagu Port—a sight and smell so iconic it was selected as one of the Ministry of the Environment's "100 Fragrant Landscapes."
Go Deeper
To delve even further into the maze of Tōshi, join a guided alleyway tour led by the local Shima no Tabisha team. A local guide can help you uncover cultural nuances and stories that you might otherwise overlook on your own.
